Yes, sunscreens do prevent sunburns, but beyond that there is surprisingly little evidence to support its safety and efficacy. In 2007 the FDA stated that they are “not aware of data demonstrating that sunscreen use alone helps prevent skin cancer.” And now new research presented by government institutions shows data linking the common sunscreen ingredient vitamin A to accelerated development of skin tumors and lesions.

That can’t be true, right? While consumers think that sunscreen prevents cancer, actually it may do just the opposite.
Since the FDA has not officially set regulation manufacturers are not legally required to prove that their products meet advertising claims, such as “waterproof” or “SPF 50.” Moreover, FDA scientists say SPF claims above 50 cannot be reliably substantiated.

Some researchers have detected an increased risk of melanoma among sunscreen users. No one knows the cause, but scientists speculate that sunscreen users stay out in the sun longer and absorb more radiation overall, or that free radicals released as sunscreen chemicals break down in sunlight may play a role.

Consumer action groups are taking notice and have since filed at least nine class-action lawsuits against sunscreen makers, alleging false advertising. The FDA is continually pressed by senators, state attorney generals and consumer action groups to act now and set regulation. Several drafts and modifications have seen been made to new proposed regulation. But while the FDA continues to postpone regulation more consumers are mislead and potentially harmed.

However, there is a glimmer of hope. Companies who are concerned with their consumers’ health and who take a natural and/or organic approach to personal care have created sunscreens that are not harmful or misleading and just as effective as the traditional chemical laden sunscreen. Below is a short list of some of the favorites all which contain the minerals zinc and titanium, and none contain oxybenzone or vitamin A.

Recommended Natural Sunscreens:
Alba Botanica
Badger
Desert Essence
Jason Natural
Soleo Organics
California Baby

Companies can no longer rely purely on their marketing claims. With the development of ways to measure cosmetic and personal care effects they can now backup their claims.

Until the 1950s most efficacy tests were subjective, but now instrumental methods have been created including in-vitro and in-vivo measurements on human volunteers. Instrumental evaluation is often used in an attempt to provide data to support claims commonly associated with the reversal of the signs of ageing due to intense scrutiny from both the regulators and competitors.

Other claims that frequently receive pressure are related to the increased moisture levels in skin, improvements in skin texture, elasticity and smoothness. Nor are claims restricted to cosmetic effects on skin. Hair properties are also measured, such as improvements in hair strength and styling products that retain their properties. Deodorants are also regularly measured with regards to their odor protection effectiveness and duration.

However, a cosmetic scientist may have a different understanding of what is meant by the product claim than that of a consumer. Therefore, it is important to understand different terms and their scientific meaning when reading product claims. Here is a short list of terms and how they are measured:

Hydration – A measure of the water content of the skin via the analysis of the moisture retention capacity based on the dielectric constant of the water present in the skins layers.

Firmness & Elasticity – The ability to resist skin deformation and return the skin to its natural state. It utilizes a probe suction method that measures the resistance of the skin to be sucked up by the negative pressure thereby measuring firmness and its ability to return to its original position measures elasticity.

A different approach uses a device that applies a twisting motion to the skin surface. When the torque is released the time taken for the skin to return to its normal state is measured and this is related to skin elasticity.

Wrinkles – A measurement of the wrinkles depth and width using dermatologic imaging analysis.

Deep lines & wrinkles – The method for measuring deeper lines and wrinkles is based on shadows on a silicon replica of the skin which is then analyzed by software which measures different characteristics of the wrinkle in length, depth and shape.

Pigmentation – To measure skin colouring and imperfections diffuse reflectance spectroscopy is used for determining the concentration of skin chromophores, melanin and haemoglobin by observing the absorption spectra.

Odor – Deodorant efficacy is evaluated by sensory assessments, also known as a “sniff test” performed by an expert panel. The panel assesses the intensity of body odor developing in the armpits of 10 to 30 persons after cleansing over the course of 24 h. In one armpit, no deodorant is used, in the other, the test deodorant is applied. The intensity of body odor is scored from 0 = none to 5 = very intensive, and is recorded every 6 h und normal activities of the test persons without intermittent washing. The difference of the average score between the two sides is the basis for the evaluation of efficacy. If there is a significant difference between the treated and untreated side after 24 h, the efficacy is proven.

Other tests are more related to the quality of the products such as hardness testing of lipsticks, flow characteristics of powders and emolliency and slip of creams and lotions. The testing of SPF, UVA and antioxidant capacity of sunscreens is another important area that warrants its own article. The testing of hair products also lends itself to extensive instrumental testing.

The cost of the instruments, the difficulty of assembling a suitable panel of volunteers and of performing clinical trials is beyond the means and abilities of many companies so the use of a third party testing company is recommended. There are numerous testing companies located throughout the World, some which have a special focus or expertise in a certain type of clinical trial.

In conclusion, as there are many third party efficacy testing houses readily available and affordable there should be no reason that a company makes a competitively advantageous statement without verification. So, don’t just trust marketing jargon, trust independent certification.

Over the past thirty years the FDA has done little to prosecute companies breaking their rules. In light of recent high-profile recalls, product safety lapses are quite public, and the FDA is stepping up their game and doing their job – protecting consumers.

In effort to prevent companies from breaking anymore rules the FDA is sending a strong signal to companies and their executives. The FDA will use its authority from the “Park Doctrine,” which allows it to seek criminal convictions for the violations of federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act against executives, even if they are unaware of specific manufacturing violations but are in a position of authority to prevent or correct the problems.

The Office of Criminal Investigations (OCI) at the FDA has not yet filed any charges or identified any companies, but do not be surprised if executives start to be named due to their companies quality problems, negligent fueled recalls, and ignoring FDA warning labels.

In the natural and organic product industry it is commonly known that there exist many false claims. So, if the FDA soon wises up and sets regulation on natural and organic labeling requirements natural product executives could be targeted too. Until “natural” and “organic” labeling requirements for cosmetics and personal care products are set, false natural claims aren’t going to send the executives to jail, but failing to comply with the laws that apply to their respective classes of goods could grant them a one-way ticket to the ‘big house.’

In the end, if the FDA focuses new aggressive tactics on those who are knowingly ignoring the law and endangering consumers, it will benefit us all.

Green is the new black. Cosmetic and personal care companies are increasing investment in order to reduce their environmental footprint by embracing greener formulations and sustainable packaging.

As packaging has the highest environmental footprint of cosmetic products it makes sense that is where the companies would invest the most. But is that the case? While cosmetic firms are focusing on green formulations most are lagging in adopting sustainable packaging and reducing their packaging footprint.

Nevertheless, some companies have successfully implemented eco-friendly practices by utilizing biodegradable plastics, recycled materials and assumed innovative ways to reduce packaging. Additionally, they are focusing on resource efficiency and life-cycle assessments of their products when developing sustainability plans.

Although natural and organic product companies are typically pioneers in eco-friendly practices, larger conventional firms are stealing the limelight by more aggressive communication of their corporate social responsibility and sustainability activities.

Aveda is leading by example. Aveda has prioritized sustainable packaging and is the largest user of PCR plastic in the beauty industry, saving over 1 million pounds of virgin plastic each year. It has also recycled 37 million polypropylene caps through its ‘Recycle Caps with Aveda’ campaign. Its products now contain 80% or more recycled materials. Aveda has also reduced carbon emissions by using wind energy to power its Minnesota manufacturing plant.

However, cosmetic and personal care companies have a long history of environmentally unfriendly practices to make up for. Now, almost all packaging firms offer green solutions: from lightweight containers to products made of recyclable materials, PCR plastics or glass, biopolymers or natural sustainable materials such as bamboo. So, the excuses are running out.

Nonetheless, the technological advancement of bio-plastics needs to continue in order to supply packaging that will meet the needs of all product types. Currently, creams, lotions and shampoos are prevented from using biopolymer packaging due to high heat sensitivity and water permeability.

The once ‘green’ fad has become the norm. And as more and more companies strive to attract environmentally conscious consumers they will help reduce the health and beauty industry’s environmental footprint.

Are you thinking about going green? Just remember these three words: reduce, reuse, recycle.

The natural personal care market is full of brands misleading consumers to think their products are natural or organic when in fact only a small fraction of the ingredients used are of natural or organic origin. With the NPA’s certified natural seal of approval personal care products can now convey a message of authenticity and trust to consumers who want truly natural products.

The two year old natural standard certification program certifies products that follow strict guidelines which state that products must be made up of at least 95 percent natural ingredients that come from a renewable or plentiful source found in nature (floral, fauna, mineral). Additionally, non-natural ingredients are allowed only when viable natural alternative ingredients are unavailable and only when there are absolutely no suspected potential human health risks. Products cannot use animal testing beyond what is required by law.

“The demand for natural products continues to grow – even in the face of the recession,” said John Gay, NPA’s executive director and CEO. “Consumers are more and more concerned about the quality and purity of the products they use every day. We are delighted to provide this important service to those looking for truly natural products, and to retailers and manufacturers who want to fill that need.”

NPA also certifies ingredients as natural. These 100-percent natural ingredients can be used by manufacturers to develop products that are in compliance with the natural standard. Currently, there are 100 certified natural ingredients.

The full criteria, certified products list, certified ingredients list, and NPA’s natural certification program for home care products, can be found at www.thenaturalseal.org.

The event, hosted alongside the HBA Expo, will take place in New York on 29-30th Septmeber. The Masterclass aims to de-mystify natural & organic cosmetic standards for personal care and ingredient firms.

The natural personal care products industry is seeing a new trend where retailers are demanding certified products in response to consumer confusion about natural and organic beauty products. The use of the terms ‘natural’ and ‘organic’ is presently unregulated, which has caused manufactures to verify the origins of their products via independent third party certifications, such as the one issued by the Natural Products Association.

The new trend is highlighted by the fact that Whole Foods Market, the world’s largest natural product retailer, will only be marketing certified organic personal care products next year.

Retailers and manufacturers alike are making a new found commitment to third party verification schemes. In Europe too natural and organic retailers require certification to be considered for sale in stores. The same is true for some retailers in Asia, such as a leading natural food retailer, Country Farm.

In order to combat a large number of products that market on false natural and organic claims, Organic Monitor’s new Masterclass helps companies take the certification route and look at the practical implications of natural and organic cosmetic standards.

Some brands are using organic ingredients to promote their products as ‘organic’, although the formulation remains far from entirely organic. Organic Monitor will be critically reviewing the various natural and organic cosmetic standards in North American and other regions to provide clarity and transparency on ‘natural’ personal care products.

Whole Foods Market is implementing new companywide standards to ensure that claims on product labels are accurate. All suppliers must be fully compliant by June 1, 2011 or will not be sold in their stores.

The company’s new set of requirements apply to all personal care products and cosmetics which use the word “organic” in any way on the product label, including the word “organic” in the brand name.  These new requirements are going to adversely affect current suppliers, and Whole Foods Market is working with suppliers to transition their label claims to meet the following standards:

• Products making an “Organic” claim (e.g. organic shampoo) must be certified to the USDA’s National Organic Program standard for organic products, which requires products to contain more than 95% organic ingredients.
• Products making a “made with organic ingredients” claim must be certified to the USDA’s National Organic Program standard for Made with Organic products which requires products to use more than 70% organic ingredients.
• Products make a “Contains organic ingredients” claim must be certified to the NSF/ANSI 305 Organic Personal Care Standard.
• Products listing an organic ingredient in the “Ingredients” listing must have the ingredient certified to the USDA NOP standard.

According to Whole Foods Market, this decision aims at ensuring that claims on product labels are accurate. “Our shoppers do not expect the definition of organic to change substantially between the food and non-food aisles of our stores,” said Joe Dickson, quality standards coordinator for Whole Foods Market. “We believe that the ‘organic’ claim used on personal care products should have just as strong a meaning to the ‘organic’ claim used on food products, which is currently regulated by the USDA’s National Organic Program.”

Cosmos is an alliance of five private organic and natural cosmetic organizations. Members include: BDIH of Germany, Cosmébio and Ecocert of France, ICEA of Italy and the Soil Association of Britain. Some of the founding members certifications are already used on foreign soil, but one standard set of requirements is yet to exist.

Other certification organizations outside of Europe may follow suit and apply for the right to certify products using the Cosmos standards.

The internationally recognized certification is of particular interest for cosmetic exporters who are in need of a certification trusted by consumers globally.

Details of the certification process have yet to be agreed upon, but are projected to be completed later this year. This leaves some cosmetic manufacturers and brands alike cautious to celebrate the label before knowing the full details.

Cost is another issue that companies are concerned about. Many companies are hesitant to invest in the new certification without knowing how it will be received by the global consumer. The exact price has not yet been determined by the association and is still under negotiation. The fee will be divided into two parts: one for the use of the Cosmos association, and the other for whichever body carries out certification.

Cosmos is not the only certification association to come to light in recent months. NaTrue label, founded in 2007 by a group of German and Swiss cosmetic companies has created their own natural and organic label that is receiving high marks amongst industry reps and is currently available.

NaTrue members include some of the leading European brands, including Weleda and Dr. Hauschka, both natural deodorants. More than 150 products already carry its label, and it recently certified U.S. brand Burt’s Bees. Starting March 2010, raw material suppliers can also certify their raw materials under the NaTrue label.

The market is ripe for a global standard of natural and organic cosmetics. Consumer demand for organic cosmetics has grown at double-digit rates in recent years. Organic and natural cosmetics still have only a 2 percent share of the total cosmetics market in Western Europe, according to Organic Monitor. But that share grew 13 percent in 2009, and even faster in previous years.

A survey by the North American retailer Saffron Rouge, for instance, found that 77 percent of its customers trusted third-party certification, while 72 percent would not trust natural and organic claims from brand owners. This highlights the utter importance for companies and brands to fairly and accurately label their products with a trustworthy certification.

The Bare Escentuals’ brand will remain the same and will immediately be able to accelerate market reach outside of North America, including in high-growth markets throughout Asia, especially Japan. Bare Escentuals’ business will operate as a separate division of Shiseido and its unique brands will continue to be managed by the current leadership team who are expected to drive future development of the business with the support of Shiseido’s significant resources, particularly given Shiseido’s extensive R&D network around the world.

Bare Escentuals was founded in 1974, and since then has grown into a 600 million dollar business. Its dedication to pure minerals and chemical-free formulas has pioneered a whole new segment within the beauty industry. Many of their loyal customers and industry minds alike are concerned whether or not their products will maintain their same dedication to truthful and accurate marketing, and all natural ingredients, or fall suite to their new parent company’s unnatural cosmetic tactics.

However, as we have previously mentioned on Natural Cosmetic News, natural does not always mean safe. And it is our motto her to be your own judge and take the necessary steps to make sure the product is actually natural and safe.

Traditionally, chemical-based cosmetics have dominated the skincare market, but now that innovation has allowed companies to make natural products that produce equivalent benefits, consumers are making the transfer from chemical to natural ingredients.

But consumers beware. Remember, not all products that claim to be natural are in fact natural. So, make sure before you use a natural product to follow the Natural Cosmetic News 6 step process to verify if the product is natural.

In the United Kingdom, the natural cosmetic market has seen a new rise of what is being called ‘functional cosmetics’. Functional cosmetics incorporate products made from safe, natural ingredients that can compete with pharmaceutical treatments in terms of their anti-aging effects and their ability to restore skin to a more youthful state.

“It’s a matter of understanding how some of these ingredients not only affect the skin, but the whole system,” explains James Betz, of Biotivia. “It’s about taking the most active parts of the ingredients and combining them in a symbiotic balance that, because of the extensive scientific research and testing carried out, means that these products actually do what they say they do,” he adds.

Biotivia has introduced a new natural ingredient into the anti aging cream that they are calling the ‘new super ingredient,’ which is resveratrol. Resveratrol is a chemical compound found in certain plants. Preliminary studies suggest that resveratrol is an excellent antioxidant, may extend exercise tolerance, and may help reduce memory loss.