Although the final sale amount was undisclosed, the deal will expand the Unipex product line and aligns with its corporate vision, as well as provide greater formulation support and resources worldwide.

Headquartered in Paris, France, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is a relatively small supplier with 20 employees and specializes in providing phospholipids. Also know as polar lipids, phospholipids are made from oil seeds and other natural sources.

These natural functional ingredients act as surfactants that help stabilize creams and lotions, thereby providing hydrating and restructuring properties. Lucas Meyers Cosmetics provides customers with innovative functional ingredients specific to their formulation and development process, which in turn has helped the company generate substantial revenue and profit growth in recent years.

“We will now have a wider offering of sophisticated and highly innovative products and services for our customers worldwide, widening our portfolio of active ingredients, delivery systems, and natural functional ingredients to name a few,” siad Patrice Barthelmes, CEO of Unipex.

“We also combine both the expertise and scientific knowledge from Unipex, which relate to peptides and biotech actives, and from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, which relate to functional ingredients and phospholipids, to improve our ideation and innovation processes.”

With Unipex’s global presence and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ strength in the European market, the new acquisition will help improve Unipex’s worldwide reach, as well as expand its product portfolio.

Vitamin E occurs naturally in eight different forms and is abundant in the American diet, as well as sold as a nutritional supplement. The new finding could prove that TCT could be more effective in preventing stroke damage than other drugs, according to Ohio State University scientists.

When TCT is taken orally it influences the production of a protein called MRP1 which clears away a compound that can cause toxicity and cell death as a result of the trauma of blocked blood flow associated with a stroke.

“This is one of the first studies to provide evidence that a safe nutrient – a vitamin – can alter microRNA biology to produce a favorable disease outcome,” said Chandan Sen, professor and vice chair for research in Ohio State’s Department of Surgery and senior author of the study. “Here, a natural nutritional product is simultaneously acting on multiple targets to help prevent stroke-induced brain damage. That is a gifted molecule.”

To date, no tests have been performed on humans, but over the past decade numerous studies have shown very favorable results on how the TCT form of vitamin E protects the brain against stroke damage in animal and cell models.

Stroke is the 3^rd leading cause of death in the United States, according to the American Stroke Association. Even though clinical trials have not taken place, TCT is set to be used as a preventive nutritional countermeasure for people at high risk for stroke.

So far the natural vitamin has only been studied via oral tests. It remains to be known what sort of preventive effects TCT will have via topical application, such as being used in product formulations like creams or lotions. Regardless if the vitamin is slated for oral use only, it is nonetheless a huge finding in the world of natural ingredients.

The 100 percent bio-based ingredient claims to boost preservative efficacy and eliminate skin irritation caused by petroleum-based glycols, as well as improve moisturization. Zemea® has been recognized by Ecocert ™ and the Natural Products Association as an ingredient of natural origin. It will be distributed in Brazil by Sarfam.

“Brazil is one of the world’s most dynamic markets for cosmetics and personal care products with several segments enjoying double digit growth rates. Many of the large, multinational companies have a presence in Brazil along with an established base of local manufacturers. The ability to have Sarfam supply Zemea® locally is important to our customer base” says Rose Durham, marketing manager, DuPont Tate & Lyle.

Zemea® propanediol can be used to replace glycols such as propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), butylene glycol (1,3-/1,4-butanediol) or glycerin. Depending on the type of formulation, it can function as an emollient, humectants, solvent, viscosity enhancer, as well as serve as a carrier for active ingredients and boost preservative efficacy.

DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products is a joint venture between global sciences company DuPont and renewable ingredients manufacturer Tate & Lyle. The company provides natural and renewably sourced ingredients that claim to not compromise product performance.

Zemea® propanediol is currently being used in many major hair and skin care brands around the world.

Dragon’s blood is obtained from the bark and sap of the tree baring the same name. When the tree is cut it oozes a red latex, hence the name Dragon’s blood. In traditional medicine throughout South America the red latex has been used for its antiviral, wound healing, and GI benefits.  Naturex promotes its antioxidant activity as a result of a high content of proanthocyanidins which helps heal and protect the skin.

“Proven efficacy, ease of formulation and safety are key characteristics of this new ingredient. Backed by in vitro and ex vivo studies, Naturex Dragon’s Blood extract improves the stratification and quality of the new epidermis and contributes to a complete regeneration of the tissues, for skin rejuvenation,” said Antoine Dauby, Group Marketing Director of Naturex.

Naturex informs customers that the active ingredient can be used in product formulations of all types of skin care applications.  The new ingredient was unveiled at the in-cosmetics trade show in Milan in April and received positive feedback, according to Dauby.

Naturex claims that the natural ingredient is obtained by locals indigenous to the Amazon in a renewable manner where the trees are well preserved.

In addition to the launch of the new natural ingredient, Naturex has posted strong sales growth. For the first quarter of 2011, Naturex reported a 17.5% growth to €60.4m. The company attributes its success to the enhanced product range and sales synergies in all markets and geographical regions where it operates.

One would think replacing harsh chemicals with safe and naturally derived ingredients would be a good thing, right? Well, not so fast. Organic Monitor believes that this development could open up a Pandora’s Box in the beauty industry. Diverting agricultural land from the production of food crops to plant derived cosmetic ingredients could result in a global food shortage.

On a small scale replacing food crops with cosmetic ingredients may not seem like a threat to world food supply, but if the natural and organic product market continues to grow as it has been for the past 5 years then companies need to take preventative action. At the very least cosmetic companies need to begin putting measures in place that ensure their ingredients are derived from sustainable sources. The repercussions could be huge if natural cosmetic companies begin receiving some blame for a global food shortage.

Global food shortage, really? Well, it is surely possible. At the current rate of world population growth, coupled by increasing food prices and a decreasing amount of available agricultural land, the threat is very real and could easily creep its way into the natural cosmetics market.

If the threat manifests companies need to be prepared for a new debate about ‘food vs. beauty crops,’ says Organic Monitor.  Companies that already sustainably source their natural ingredients will be one step ahead and avoid the backfire.

Lead by Example

Large consumer product companies who source natural ingredients realize the risk and have already started taking proactive measures. L’Oreal, Unilever and Proctor & Gamble have made commitments to sustainable sourcing, while Wal-Mart has been putting pressure on its suppliers to adopt sustainability practices for a few years now.

Natural and Organic certifications and Fair Trade standards are gaining popularity around the world. Up next could be sustainable ingredient certified.

Palm Oil is a good example of how companies or associations can come together and set standards to sourcing natural ingredients. It is possible that in the near future more companies will follow suit as they have with palm oil by pledging to only source from Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO)-approved companies. Organic Monitor has already noticed that similar roundtables exist for soya and cocoa, and more are under development.

In summary, the cosmetic and personal care industry have been moving in the right direction by wanting to make safer products by using natural ingredients, but it is evident that it now needs to be taken one step further. No longer is the time when having natural ingredients is enough. Companies now need to be able to squash the debate before it occurs and avoid a potentially harsh backfire by beginning to sustainably source natural ingredients.

The agreement has already taken effect whereby a combination of Unigen natural ingredients is being used in Clinque’s Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector and Derma White Clinical Brightening Essence. Both skin care products are part of the “Nu Natural” trend where companies are blending natural ingredients and effective green chemistry.  No natural certifications have been announced.  In the future Clinque is expected to add further natural ingredients to their product line, as well as the addition of Unigen ingredients to other Estée Lauder brands.

The agreement now provides Estée Lauder with an important and commercially successful partnership with a global leader in the discovery and development of proprietary natural ingredients for the cosmetics and personal care industries.

With a variety of scientifically substantiated natural ingredients already distributed worldwide, Unigen develops botanical and marine-derived natural ingredients of which the safety and efficacy are established through testing at the genetic, cellular, and human clinical levels.

One such resource, Cosmeticsinfo.org, aims to provide factual, scientific information on ingredients most commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products in the United States. It is sponsored by The Personal Care Products Council, and the Web site contains information about the safety, testing, and regulation of cosmetics and personal care products and their ingredients. The site also has a detailed ingredient database which allows you to search by ingredient name and is accompanied by a list of resources, and background and safety information.

Another resource that helps consumers understand their product’s ingredients and provide detailed safety information and any research findings is the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Database. The Skin Deep Database is an online safety guide for cosmetics and personal care products that integrates their in-house collection of personal care product ingredient listings with more than 50 toxicity and regulatory databases. The database also provides safety ratings for nearly a quarter of all products on the market so consumers can easily get a quick understanding of the products safety by reviewing a rating on a scale from zero to ten, zero being the safest, and ten being potentially the most harmful.

Both resources are a great source of safety and ingredient information; however, there still is a lack of validity surrounding the entire natural and organic cosmetic industry. Which source of information should the consumer trust? Who is right and who is wrong?

Many online sources of cosmetic safety and ingredient information provide conflicting or incomplete information. I believe the FDA should be the one organization that the consumer can trust, but it is pretty clear that they are slacking and not staying up-to-date with new product formulations, ingredients, and especially when trying to regulate the natural and organic market.

When it comes to a trust worthy source of cosmetic ingredient information I would recommend both the EWG and The Personal Care Products Council. However, I find it irritating that there needs to be non-governmental watchdog groups in the first place who are trying to protect consumers when in fact it is the FDA who should be doing the job. But I guess a government watchdog picking up the slack is better than the alternative of not having one at all.

Natural Cosmetic News appreciates the hard work done by these organizations, but we believe there is some room for improvement. For example, while both sites provide detailed safety information they also lack information relating to the origin of the ingredients, as well as if they hold any natural or organic certifications and by which standards. Additionally, they fail to state whether or not the ingredient is natural or a synthetic replica.

Take for example the commercially known mineral ore, kalunite™ (INCI name Potassium Alum), which is a naturally occurring crystal mineral extracted from the Earth’s crust, but potassium alum can also be synthetically manufactured. The same goes for many minerals used in cosmetics and personal care products. So, having a comparison of the differences in appearance, efficacy and any potential side effects of both the natural and synthetic ingredient would be a plus. Furthermore, it would also be nice to know the environmental impact of using the ingredient in product formulations. For example, if the ingredient is a mineral, as is the case with kalunite™ Potassium alum, information relating to the mineral’s mining process, location of mining, and environmental impact would be a pleasant addition.

Another example of a common ingredient used in cosmetics that we would like to see more information on are essential oils. Just like minerals, essential oils can also be synthetically manufactured. Lavender oil is frequently used as a natural fragrance, but is it really natural if in fact it was synthetically produced to be “nature identical?” True lavender oil is extracted from the plant lavandula angustifolia, but often the oil comes from a cross breed of plants and may be combined with chemical constituents of lavender or other plants. Although the synthetic reconstruction of essential oils provides uniformity for product formulation they seldom include all the trace chemicals which might be found in any given specimen of a certain plant material. This is why additional information could be added in the resources regarding the origin or source of the ingredient while comparing natural and synthetic differences.

Regardless of the faults I may find in the site’s information, I take my hat off to both, and say, “keep up the good work.”

To answer bluntly, no. Consumers are demanding more than just a natural deodorant, and are unwilling to sacrifice efficacy for natural ingredients. Companies are listening to consumers’ demands. They are now heavily investing in green chemistry and are creating natural deodorants with equally effective results as the strongest chemical deodorants. Consumers no longer have to make a sacrifice to avoid harmful ingredients.

One such natural ingredient allowing deodorants to be both natural and effective is potassium alum, a naturally occurring mineral. Deodorant companies are replacing their harmful or toxic chemical ingredients used to prevent odor with the natural mineral. And if they aren’t, they should. Potassium alum is a natural deodorant ingredient that provides very effective odor protection, and best of all, it is an equally effective alternative to synthetic active ingredients.

A common type of deodorant made from potassium alum is crystal deodorant. The name stems from the fact that the naturally occurring form of potassium alum is a crystallized mineral. In its raw form it looks similar to quartz whereas it is a colorless translucent crystal that forms in clusters. However, the preferred form of potassium alum for the commercial production of natural products, other than crystal deodorant stones, is potassium alum powder. Potassium alum powder makes it possible to formulate a variety of products that have natural odor protection, such as soaps, lotions and body sprays. The ideal choice is micronized potassium alum, because the potassium alum powder is so fine it dissolves in liquids. Potassium alum powder is obtained by crushing, grinding and milling the naturally extracted mineral crystals.

Potassium Alum Deodorant Benefits

Potassium alum deodorant can provide benefits that are unmatched by leading traditional deodorants. Potassium alum, when used in its pure state, will provide 24 hour odor protection by inhibiting the growth of odor-causing bacteria. Additionally, it is hypoallergenic, and does not include fearful ingredients like Parabens or aluminum chlorohydrate. Also, an added benefit of potassium alum deodorant is that when it is applied to the skin it is totally invisible and leaves no white streaks or oily residue.

Furthermore, potassium alum can act as a great aftershave. It provides astringent and antiseptic effects which allow it to stop the bleeding of shaving cuts and nicks while toning and firming the skin.  And, a little known secret of potassium alum is that it can also prevent razor bumps or even help remove pimples.

Germany’s BASF and Bruker Biospin GMBH and Greece’s Korres SA Natural Products will work with national research centres from Greece, France and South Africa plus universities from Greece, Panama and Switzerland in this 2010-2014 €4.2m, EU funded research project. Plants will be collected from Europe, Africa, Latin America and the Asia Pacific region.

Participating researchers will first assess 500 compounds from existing repositories, screening for cosmetic properties such as UV protection, anti-ageing, anti-hyper-pigmentation and agrochemical uses. Results will guide studies of plants collected through the project.

(Source: Cosmeticbusiness.com)

Some brands are expecting to see the ‘Nu Natural’ trend take effect in the coming year, and stray away from the objective of obtaining natural or organic certification. Organic ingredients will still remain the backbone of ‘Nu Natural’ products, but brands will focus more on the ingredients’ authenticity and efficacy, rather than the certification label.

The ‘Nu Natural’ theme requires manufacturers to get creative and explore new ingredients and simple formulas. The twist is that they will need to take the naturally sourced ingredients and formulate them with a new generation of phytochemicals, anthocyanins and fermented actives.

Below are a range of recently launched or re-launched cosmetic ingredients that highlight the possibilities of uniting science and nature.

Lipocire A – Interesterification of oils from the palm tree

Lipocire A, re-launched by Gattefossé, is the result of the interesterification of two hydrogenated oils from the fruit of the palm tree, palm oil and palm kernel oil, which is rich in saturated fatty acids. It is used as a texturizer for emulsions and lotions and can also be used in lipsticks and makeup pencils, giving good spreadability on the lips and around the eyes, and melting smoothly on application.

Aquacell Raspberry PrH – Substitute, organic cellular water from raspberry

Cosmetic formulators can now increase the organic percentage of their products with a new ingredient from Herbarom Laboratoire, Aquacell Raspberry PrH, which is organic cellular water from fresh raspberry pulp. Raspberries are among the fruits with the highest level of antioxidants.

Aquacell Bio 100 PrG – Substitute, organic wheat culm water

Aquacell Bio 100 PrG, also developed by Herbarom Laboratoire is organic wheat culm water. It is gluten-free and is said to be suitable for formulations for fragile or reactive skin.

Liposome Herbasec  – Standardized botanical extract

Liposome Herbasec [INCI: Maltodextrin, plant extract, lecithin] is a novel range of standardized, liposomal-based, botanical extracts in a lyophilised powder form. It provides an easy way to add botanical extracts into a formulation. Current extracts, which are water dispersible up to 5%, include green tea, white tea, white hibiscus, aloe vera and guarana.

Herbasol Ecoverte  – Glycerin botanical extract

Herbasol Ecoverte [INCI: Glycerin, aqua, plant extract] is a range of Ecocert validated extracts based on Ecocert certified glyceine. The current range of preservative-free extracts includes raspberry, mango, lavender, lime tree blossom, elderflower, vanilla, green tea and white tea.

Natural AHA Complex – Exfoliant botanical extract

Natural AHA Complex [INCI: Maltodextrin, citric acid, tartaric acid, silica, lactic acid, aqua] is naturally-derived alpha hydroxy acids in white powder form, formulated to deliver 20-30% total acids (as citric acid) so can be used as a gentle exfoliant for skin and scalp. Again this is preservative and solvent-free.

Vegelight – Petroleum style volatility

Vegelight 1214LC from Grant Industries is an Ecocert approved volatile, colourless and odourless alkane sourced from vegetable oils. Grant says its volatility properties are similar to petroleum-derived isododecane and synthetically-derived cyclomethicones.

LycoMega – Antioxidant from tomato seeds

LycoMega [INCI: Solanum lycopersicum seed oil & caprylic/capric triglyceride & vaccinium cacrocarpon seed oil & helianthus annus seed oil & tocopherol] from Lessonia contains titrated lycopene extracted by cold process from tomato seeds. It is an antioxidant and blocks the damaging effects of free radicals, protecting the keratinocytes exposed to UVB.  Lessonia says LycoMega has the strongest antioxidant activity of all natural antioxidantsand it is produced by a natural, solvent-free process. The ingredient is preservative-free and is suitable for use in organic products.

Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate – Surfactant derived from vegetables

Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate is used as a secondary surfactant and is derived from vegetables.  It is said to act as an anti-irritant and is compatible with a wide range of cleansing products.

Sodium coco-sulfate – Surfactant derived from coconuts

Sodium coco-sulfate only comes from coconut fatty alcohol. It can be used in a wide range of cleansers where a high vegetable content is required formulates easily with secondary surfactants when high viscosities and good foaming are needed.

Helianthus annus seed oil – Moisturizer derived from sunflower oil

Helianthus annus seed oil reinforces the skin’s barrier function and provides a soothing action for dry skin.  It is Ecocert certified. Both the moisturising and soothing activities are said to be directly associated with the ingredient’s ability to activate the PPARa receptor of keratinocytes.

Vegetable-based waxing lyrical

New vegetable-based waxes provide an environmentally friendly alternative to multi-component paraffin blends. They are said to avoid the fat bloom and cracking issues sometimes associated with vegetable-based waxes.

Soy Germ Extract – Supercritical phytosterols

The organic certified Soy Germ extract made by Flavex is rich in phytosterols and said to be ideally suited to cosmetics. Soy germs have an oil content of just 6-8% so Flavex says this is best extracted with supercritical CO2. It contains more than 70% polyunsaturated omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids and an unusually high content of tocopherols and phytosterols, the special feature being the particularly high phytosterol content of 5-8%.

Wheat Bran Extract – Anti-ageing secondary plant ingredient

Millet, recently launched by Flavex, is a wheat bran extract that contains milacin, a secondary plant ingredient which is an important cell membrane component with protective and anti-ageing efficacy.

The Supercritical Wheat Bran Extract which is also made by Flavex is organic and said to inhibit subcutaneous fat tissue, making it useful in anti-cellulite applications.